La Rousselie

One should not miss La Roque Gageac before heading for Domme. This late 14th century bastide sits on the hillside. A ‘must’ is the 13th century bastide of Montpazier – the best preserved in the area. Built by the English, the town still has its medieval market square and surrounding arcades

The tourist trap of Sarlat-La-Canéda heaves during high season, particularly on Saturdays when the best market in the region takes over Place de la Liberté to compete with the luxury shops. Once a month there is also a fair.

Market produce is dominated by foodstuffs particularly foie gras, walnuts and pork, cooked and prepared in every conceivable way. Sarlat is a town to try and savour out of season where four centuries of architectural styles – rich in ornamental detail and colour – mix together and complement each other perfectly. It has remained almost intact since the 17th century and is not surprisingly classed as a national monument.

Top cave for paintings is the replica of Lascaux, Lascaux II at Montignac – the original cave is closed. Don’t bypass it in the mistaken belief that because it’s a replica it will be awful, it isn’t. Ten years in the making and claimed to be within a millimetre of the original, the paintings of bulls, bears, horses and deer are breathtaking.